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How to wash PROBLEM FABRICS

15 Apr

Page 7 from Modern Woman Magazine (Volume 17, Number 1, 1948)

How to wash PROBLEM FABRICS

WHILE NOT EVEN the most amateurish cook would attempt to bake biscuits without first consulting a recipe, many women face Monday after Monday without the slightest idea of the “recipe” for a successful washing. The rules of washing are just as important and inexorable as the rules of cooking and must be followed carefully if you are to obtain perfect results. It is impossible to give any one washing rule that would be equally applicable to all fabrics, but a few general rules do apply to all types of fine wash-ables.

All fine fabrics should be washed in mild, lukewarm suds, with a gentle, quick motion. Never allow a garment to soak more than three minutes, and if it should happen to be printed or highly colored, the quicker you wash it the better. Be sure to rinse thoroughly, squeezing the water out gently. Beware of ringing or twisting any fine fabric. Hang the garment up in such a manner as to preserve the style lines. Here are a few helpful tips to guide you in laundering specific fabrics requiring special care.

HIGHLY COLORED PRINTS— Prints of this type may “bleed” or show a flush of color in the wash water. All bright prints should be washed quickly, and pressed when almost dry.

JERSEY FABRICS AND JERSEY-TYPE WEAVES— The secret of laundering this type of fabric is to press when almost dry, first heavily lengthwise, then heavily crosswise, with firm, even strokes. This restores the fabric and garment to original size.

CHINTZES AND GLAZED FABRICS—These wash perfectly, but never crumple, wring, or twist any glazed fabric. Wash by the dip-and-drip method of dipping up and down in suds, and rinsing the same way. Pat out moisture between two turkish towels and iron on the right side when almost dry.

RAYON CREPES — Generally speaking, no plain colored rayon or acetate crepe presents any unusual washing problems, and can be washed if the style. lines of the garment permit. However, because of their crepey construction, crepes must be eased back to original size and shape with a warm, not hot, iron.

TAFFETAS, ORGANDIES AND NYLONS—Should be washed by the dip-and-drip method, using cool water throughout. Hang dripping wet and press taf-fetas when almost dry, on wrong side only. Organdies should be pressed at once, and nylons pressed not at all. When in doubt, always determine the exact nature of the fabric, or test a small piece of material for washing behavior before attempting to launder it.

IMAGE – LEFT, when washing rayons, as all fine fabrics, squeeze the suds through the fabric gently. Always use a gentle soap and plenty of rich, lukewarm suds, and rinse thoroughly.

IMAGE – BELOW, to avoid color-bleeding, place bright colored prints in a towel and gently pat out excess moisture. All prints should be washed quickly.

Special request – How to wash silk

15 Apr

Ivory Snow

Diana bought some new silk blouses recently, and she told me she was worried about how to care from them.

So, what would I do?

First thing is to read manufacturer’s directions, and see what they suggest.  

These days, I’ve been washing all of my delicates in Ivory Snow Ultra-gentle care detergent. I like it better than Woolite Extra Delicate, and it’s a better buy! You get more for the money, and it smells so clean!

For silk, Ivory Snow’s maker suggests to wash in cold on the gentlest cycle, and drip dry, or roll up in a towel then lay flat to dry. Don’t wring or twist the fabric.

Here’s a advertisement for Ivory Snow from the McCall’s Magazine in 1946. While the ad is for the care of nylons, the care is the same. 

 

Precious Nylons!

GIVE THEM Longer Life WITH AMAZING COOL-WATER IVORY SNOW

NEW! DIFFERENT! It carries stocking protection a step farther!

Soft, misty-beige nylons are back on those famous American legs. She helps keep them color-bright… color-right for her new “Vintage Red” frock with Ivory Snow! Ivory Snow care every night guards color and fit … means longer stocking life too! Different from cake soap. . . newer than flake soaps … those granulated ‘snowdrops” make instant suds in lukewarm water—even in cool water! Safe suds that carry protection a step fart her than soaps not Ivory-mild. Longer life for stockings! Wonderful Ivory Snow!

 

How to Make Your Clothing Last Longer – Part 4

4 Apr

Welcome to Part Four in this series on how to make your clothing last longer.

So far, you bought, worn, and washed your clothing. Now, it’s time to put them away properly.

Storing your clothing with love and attention can help them last and last. How you store and put away your clothing can have just as big of an impact on longevity as how you clean them.

Let’s look at some basics;

Oh, cedar!
 
Hanging a cedar block next to your favorite wool suit or placing one in your dresser drawers can help keep everything fresh-smelling and keep moths from eating you fabrics (maybe). Another necessity for keeping your clothing fresh and protected is to use closet dehumidifier crystals (such as ‘Keep It Dry’).

Avoid shoulder bumps from hangers - Store your sweaters in a drawer!

 

Brush, brush it real good

A suit can be hung back in the closet once you’ve aired it out, and used a suit brush and a spot treatment to remove any grime.

Before you store a wool coat in the off-season, have it dry-cleaned to kill any insect eggs. Otherwise, once or twice a season is all the dry cleaning you need.

No more wire hangers

No one should own wire hangers. Ever. They can rust (yikes!) and they create pressure points on the shoulders of shirts, dresses, and jackets. These pressure points cause permanent shoulder bumps in the fabric.

Invest in good plastic hangers for everyday clothing, and wide cedar hangers for suits and outerwear. These will preserve the garments’ shape and help them last longer.

Stash it in a drawer.

Avoid the risk of shoulder bumps all together by storing things like sweaters in dresser drawers. (Learn how to properly fold a sweater here.) Folding, rather than hanging up, delicate cashmere and wool knits will help extend their wearability.

How to Make Your Clothing Last Longer – Part 3

28 Mar

Welcome to Part Three in this series on how to make you clothes last longer.

In the last section, we talked about buying clothes and what can put those clothes in danger. Well, nothing is more dangerous for your duds than washing and drying. However, careful cleaning can easily double the lifespan of your clothes.

Limit the number of times you need to launder an item!

Air out your outfit at the end of the day!

Do you wash your clothing every time you wear it? It’s not necessary.

Most of the time, airing out your clothing at the end of the day will allow you get another wear out of it. Use of a lint roller and cleaning fluid (I like Dryel’s stain remover) to touch up garments to make them presentable again.

Read the care labels.

Always follow the care labels on your clothing! I’m dead serious about this. Not all clothing should be washed the same way. Different fabrics need different water temperatures. Some things do well in the dryer, while others don’t. If in doubt about was those little laundry symbols mean, consult this chart.

Delicates go in mesh bags.
 
To help your bras, slips, or anything else with thin straps last longer, wash them on gentle, and in a mesh bag. This will keep the straps from getting wrapped around other clothing and stretching out.
 
If you love it, wash it in cold.

Washing your clothes in hot water is tough on the fibers. To reduce wear on nylon and other stretchy fabrics, wash them in cold water. Washing your favorite things in cold will save them from fading, and shrinking. Save the warm water for more soiled items and use hot water to kill germs in bed sheets, towels, wash cloths, and underwear.

The dryer is not your friend!

I love my dryer, but tumbling drying shortens the life-span of your clothes. Hang up thing you love to drip dry, particularly things made of nylon and polyester. Never put bras, shape-wear, items made of cashmere or wool in the dryer. Instead, roll them up in a towel to absorb the extra moisture, then re-shape, and lay out flat to dry.

And a word about dry cleaning.

Dry-cleaning is wonderful, but it’s expensive and can zap the life out of your clothing. Limit the times you dry-clean things like wool suits and outerwear. Most of the time, airing these items out on a sunny day and giving them a once-over with suit brush is all you need.

 

 For more information;

 

 

 

Vintage Camera series – My Kodak Duaflex II

18 Mar

I think that anyone who reads my blog regularly knows that I like photography, but I’m not a pro. Because of my art training, I love beautiful photos rather than technically perfect ones.

Recently, I got a set of old cameras. I’ve been taking them apart and cleaning them to make them useful again.

It’s enjoyable!

Tonight, I’ll talk about one of them.

Meet my new friend; The Kodak Duaflex II camera

The Kodak Duaflex II was a 620 roll film camera made between 1950 and 1954.

The camera has an aluminum alloy and leatherette body and a simple fixed focus lens. The viewfinder is a mirror reflector on top of the camera. This means you hold the camera at waist-height and look down into it.

Through this viewfinder, everything is mirror-image.

So, I used some cardboard and tape to wedge in some modern 35mm film to try. (I followed the advice of this person.)

I modified the camera to shoot 35mm film.

You can also re-spool modern 120 film onto a 620 spool, because the film is the same but the spindle on the 120 is too fat. For me, this method is too much trouble. Regardless, there’s nowhere in town to have 120 film developed!

After I fixed the film into the camera, I took some photos around my home and campus.

There are many ‘mistakes’ in this film. There are scratchs and dust on the negative from winding them onto metal spools. There are also light leaks because of the age of the camera, but I’ve left them alone so that can happen naturally. Because the lens is fixed, object must be more than 5 feet away to be in focus. Sometimes the pictures overlaped (or were double exposed) because I had no way to know how far to wind the modern film between shots (beyond guessing!).

These are the results; 

These sweet-smelling flowers have already bloomed completely!

A tree near the fine arts building that students like to sit under.

Construction on the new music hall.

A crane on top the construction.

Campus and the town beyond

Anna Belle was out of focus because she was too close!

However, the tree behind her is in perfect focus.

Anna Belle’s eye has wonderful bokeh.

Andrew… not so much.

At a restaurant.

Andrew took this picture of me.

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